pier 29 alameda Coco s INDIAN/CONTINENTAL $$ (off Map p902; %23540600; Rd No 2; mains 120325; h11.30am-11.30pm) This

898 ANDHRA PRADESH Kalakriti ART GALLERY (Map p 902 ; www.kalakriti.in; Rd No 10, Banjara pier 29 alameda Hills; h11am-7pm) Shrishti ART GALLERY (www.shrishtiart.com; Rd No 15, Jubilee Hills; h11am-7pm) C Courses Vipassana International Meditation Centre BUDDHIST MEDITATION (Dhamma Khetta; %24240290; www.khetta. dhamma.org; Nagarjuna pier 29 alameda Sagar Rd, 12.6km) The Vipassana International Meditation Centre has intensive 10-day meditation courses in its peaceful grounds 20km outside the city. Apply online or at the Hyderabad office (%24732569). A shuttle runs to/from Hyderabad on the fi rst and last day of courses. T Tours APTDC (p 906 ) tours the city ( 270), Ramoji Film City ( 600), Nagarjuna Sagar (weekends, 450) and Tirupathi/Tirumala (three days, 1950). The Sound & Light tour ( 200) takes in Hitec City, the botanic gardens and Golconda Fort s sound-and-light show, but you may spend much of it in traffi c. Tours leave from APTDC s Secunderabad branch (Map p 896 ) : : : : : : : 66 66 66 66 66 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 6 6 66 66 66 66 66 # R R # # # # # # # # # #

Warangal is a major rail junction. Trains go regularly to Hyderabad (2nd class/chair 67/229, three hours), Vijayawada (2nd class/ chair 79/278, four hours) and Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 277/723/979, 11 hours). Many trains go to Delhi daily.

Coco s INDIAN/CONTINENTAL $$ (off Map p902; %23540600; Rd No 2; mains 120325; h11.30am-11.30pm) pier 29 alameda This chilled-out rooftop restaurant/bar almost succeeds in resembling a bamboo beach shack, though it s position on a busy road above a Chinese restaurant was always going to make it tough. Looking out over KBR Park, relaxed Coco s

Hyderabad, City of Pearls, is like an elderly, impeccably dressed princess whose time has past. Once the seat of the powerful and wealthy Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties, the city has seen centuries of great prosperity and innovation. Today, the Old City is full of centuries-old Islamic monuments and even older charms. In fact, the whole city is laced with architectural gems: ornate tombs, mosques, palaces and homes from the past are tucked away, faded and enchanting, in corners all over town. Keep your eyes open.