Thursday, January 3, 2013

seattle ferry schedule bainbridge kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage centres: on average, 40,00





AP State Museum MUSEUM (Map p898; Public Gardens Rd, Nampally; admission 10, camera/video 100/500; h10.30am5pm Sat-Thu) The continually renovated State Museum hosts a rather dusty collection of important archaeological finds from the area, as well as a Buddhist sculpture gallery, seattle ferry schedule bainbridge with some relics of the Buddha and an exhibit on Andhra s Buddhist history. There are also Jain and bronze sculpture galleries, a decorative-arts gallery and a 4500-year-old Egyptian mummy. The museum, like the gorgeous Legislative Assembly building seattle ferry schedule bainbridge (Map p 898 ) down the road (both commissioned seattle ferry schedule bainbridge by the seventh nizam), is floodlit at night.

About 65km northeast of Warangal, the stunning Ramappa Temple (h6am-6.30pm), built in 1234, is an attractive example of Kakatiya architecture, although it was clearly influenced by Chalukya and Hoysala styles. Its pillars are ornately carved and its eaves shelter fine statues of female forms.

kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage centres: on average, 40,000 pilgrims come each day (the total often exceeds 100,000), and darshan (deity-viewing) runs 24/7. Temple staff alone number 12,000, and the efficient Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams (TTD; %2277777; www.tirumala.org) brilliantly administers the crowds. As a result, although the throngs can be overwhelming, a sense of order, serenity and ease mostly prevails, and a trip to the Holy Hill can be fulfi lling, even if you re not a pilgrim.

cape vincent ferry Only a couple of buildings remain from this 15th-century fort (Indian/foreigner 10/100; h8am-5pm), 1





Only a couple cape vincent ferry of buildings remain from this 15th-century fort (Indian/foreigner 10/100; h8am-5pm), 14km west of Tirupathi. Both the Rani Mahal and the Raja Mahal, which houses a small museum (h10am-5pm Sat-Thu), cape vincent ferry were constructed under Vijayanagar rule and resemble structures in Hampi s Royal Centre. There s a nightly cape vincent ferry sound-and-light show (admission 35; h8pm Mar-Oct, 7.30pm cape vincent ferry Nov-Feb), narrated by Bollywood great Amitabh cape vincent ferry Bachchan. Buses for Chandragiri ( 10) leave Tirupathi bus station every half-hour. An autorickshaw is 200 return.

To get here, take a Puttaparthi-Bengaluru bus and alight at Kodakonda Checkpost ( 40). From there, take a Hindupur-bound bus ( 14) or an autorickshaw ( 250 return) to Lepakshi. A private car from Puttaparthi is 1000. You can also go from Hindupur, a main stop on the Puttaparthi-Bengaluru train line, which has a few hotels. It s 11km from the temple.

Masala INDIAN $$ (Signature Towers, 1st fl, Asilmetta; mains 60-180; h11.30am-3.30pm & 7-11pm) Near Sampath Vinayaka Temple, Masala does out-of-this-world Andhra, tandoori and Chinese. Try the chepa pulusu (Andhrastyle fish; 130).

seattle ferry to vancouver C Courses Dhamma Nagajjuna MEDITATION (Nagarjunasagar Vipassana Centre; %09440139329; www.nagajjuna.





C Courses Dhamma Nagajjuna MEDITATION (Nagarjunasagar Vipassana Centre; seattle ferry to vancouver %09440139329; www.nagajjuna.dhamma.org; Hill Colony) seattle ferry to vancouver Keeping the legacy of Buddhism alive in the region, this centre offers intensive 10-day meditation courses in the grounds overlooking Nagarjuna Sagar. Courses are run on a donation basis.

1 Sights & Activities Nagarjunakonda Museum MUSEUM (Indian/foreigner seattle ferry to vancouver 5/100; h8am-5pm) This thoughtfully laid-out museum, located on an island accessible seattle ferry to vancouver by boat, has Buddha statues and beautifully carved limestone slabs that once adorned stupas. Most are

ferry to nj To get here, take a Puttaparthi-Bengaluru bus and alight at Kodakonda Checkpost ( 40). From there, t





Golconda Fort FORT (off Map p894; Indian/foreigner 5/100; h9am5pm) ferry to nj Although most of this 16th-century fortress dates from the time of the Qutb Shah kings, its origins as a mud fort have been traced to the earlier reigns of the Yadavas and Kakatiyas.

Masala INDIAN $$ (Signature Towers, 1st fl, Asilmetta; mains 60-180; h11.30am-3.30pm & 7-11pm) Near Sampath Vinayaka Temple, Masala does out-of-this-world Andhra, tandoori and Chinese. Try the chepa pulusu (Andhrastyle fish; 130).

To get here, take a Puttaparthi-Bengaluru bus and alight ferry to nj at Kodakonda Checkpost ( 40). From there, take a Hindupur-bound bus ( 14) or an autorickshaw ( 250 return) to Lepakshi. A private car from Puttaparthi is 1000. You can also go from Hindupur, ferry to nj a main stop on the Puttaparthi-Bengaluru train line, which has a few hotels. It s 11km from the temple.

# # # # # # # # # f SR NAGAR AMEERPET BANJARA HILLS SOMAJIGUDA MASAB TANK SAIFABAD ferry to nj Hussain Sagar Banjara Lake KBR Park Jalagam Vengala Rao Park Chacha Nehru Park Ameerpet Rd Rd No 3 Panjagutta Rd Lakdi-ka-pul Rd Mahavir Marg RdNo 1 Rd No 2 Greenlands Rd Rd No 14 YellareddygudaRd RdNo 5 Rd No 13 Rd No 7 Rd No 10 AmeerpetRd Rd No 12 Balkampet Rd YousufgudaMain Rd Srinagar Colony Rd Necklace Rd Necklace Rd Train Station Khairatabad Train Station Begumpet Train Station Lakdikapul Train Station 20 19 18 12 14 5 10 6 9 8 15 17 2 13 11 1 16 7 3 4 Care Hospital 4

nyc ferry Vijay Vihar Complex HOTEL $$ (%277362; fax 276633; r with AC from 1800; as) Two kilometres up the hi





Shilparamam Crafts Village HANDICRAFTS (off Map p902; www.shilparamam.org; Madhapur; adult/child 25/10; h10.30am-8.30pm) Near Hitech City, this government-initiative arts village has stalls nyc ferry selling nyc ferry handicrafts and clothes from all over India. A night bazaar is also planned. It has nice gardens with a pond to stroll about. nyc ferry

FPaigah Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; Phisalbanda, Santoshnagar; h10am5pm Sat-Thu) The aristocratic Paigah family, purportedly descendents of the second nyc ferry Caliph of Islam, were fierce loyalists of the nizams, serving as statespeople, philanthropists and generals under and alongside them. The Paigahs necropolis, nyc ferry tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood 4km southeast of Charminar, is a small compound of exquisite mausoleums made of marble from Agra and lime stucco. The main complex contains 27 tombs with intricate inlay work, surrounded by delicately carved walls and canopies, stunning filigree screens with geometric patterning and, overhead, tall, graceful turrets. The tombs are down a small lane across from Owasi Hospital. Look for the Preston nyc ferry Junior College sign. The Paigah Tombs ( 20) booklet is sold at the AP State Museum, but not here.

Shilparamam Crafts Village HANDICRAFTS (off Map p902; www.shilparamam.org; Madhapur; adult/child 25/10; h10.30am-8.30pm) nyc ferry Near Hitech City, this government-initiative arts village has stalls selling handicrafts and clothes from all over India. A night bazaar is also planned. It has nice gardens with a pond to stroll about.

Vijay Vihar Complex HOTEL $$ (%277362; fax 276633; r with AC from 1800; as) Two kilometres up the hill from the bus stand is the fancy government hotel overlooking the lake. Room balconies have excellent views.

sayville maritime museum Warangal was the capital of the Kakatiya kingdom, which covered the greater part of present-day Andh





Warangal was the capital of the Kakatiya kingdom, which covered the greater part of present-day Andhra Pradesh from the late 12th to early 14th centuries until it was conquered by the Tughlaqs of Delhi. sayville maritime museum The Hindu Kakatiyas were great builders and patrons of Telugu literature sayville maritime museum and arts, and during their reign the Chalukyan style of temple architecture reached its pinnacle.

The monasteries flourished during the Theravada period (Bavikonda, from the 3rd century BC to the 3rd century AD, and Thotlakonda, from the 2nd century BC to 2nd century AD) and had votive stupas, congregation halls, chaitya-grihas, viharas and refectories. Today only the ruins of these massive monastic compounds remain, but they re impressive nonetheless, with a placid, almost magical, air and sea views to meditate on. Bavikonda and Thotlakonda are 14km and 16km, respectively, from Vizag on Bheemli Beach Rd. Vizag s autorickshaw drivers charge around 400 return to see both.

B E N G A L B A Y O F N A D U T A M I L KARNATAKA M A H A R A S H T R A P R A D E S H M A D H Y A O D I S H A (Masulipatnam) Machilipatnam (Madras) Hanamkonda Bhongir Bengaluru Ramatirtham Guntupalli Bhattiprolu Chandavaram Chandragiri Vellore Kazhipet Nagarjunakonda Palampet Jagdalpur Kondagaon Medak Khamman Srisailam Kondapalli Penukonda Hindupur Sri Kalahasti Chennai Bidar Nanded Kakanida (Bangalore) Bheemunipatnam Anantapur Puttaparthi Dharmavaram Mahbubnagar Amaravathi Macherla Anakapalle Vizianagaram Nellore Kurnool Adoni Guntakal Gooty Cuddapah Rajahmundry Eluru Vijayawada Tenali Ongole Guntur Tirupathi Chittoor Secunderabad Warangal Nizamabad Wildlife Sanctuary Pakhal RiverPenneri Sagar Nagarjuna River Godavari Araku Valley CoastCoromandel Borra RiverKrishna Kirandul 4 7 4 18 18 5 9 9 7 Bavikonda Thotlakonda Sankaram Araku Lepakshi Visakhapatnam Tirumala Hyderabad 0 200 km 0 100 miles B E N G A L B A Y O F N A D U T A M I L KARNATAKA M A H A R A S H T R A P R A D E S H M A D H Y A O D I S H A (Masulipatnam) Machilipatnam (Madras) Hanamkonda Bhongir Bengaluru Ramatirtham Guntupalli Bhattiprolu Chandavaram Chandragiri Vellore Kazhipet Nagarjunakonda Palampet Jagdalpur Kondagaon Medak Khamman Srisailam Kondapalli sayville maritime museum Penukonda Hindupur Sri Kalahasti Chennai Bidar Nanded Kakanida (Bangalore) Bheemunipatnam Anantapur Puttaparthi Dharmavaram Mahbubnagar Amaravathi Macherla Anakapalle Vizianagaram Nellore Kurnool Adoni Guntakal Gooty Cuddapah Rajahmundry Eluru Vijayawada Tenali Ongole Guntur Tirupathi Chittoor Secunderabad Warangal Nizamabad Wildlife Sanctuary Pakhal RiverPenneri Sagar Nagarjuna River Godavari Araku Valley CoastCoromandel Borra RiverKrishna Kirandul 4 7 4 18 18 5 9 9 7 Bavikonda Thotlakonda Sankaram Araku Lepakshi Visakhapatnam Tirumala Hyderabad 0 200 km 0 100 miles

If you re pressed for time, APTDC runs three-day tours ( 1950) to Tirumala from Hyderabad. KSTDC (p 849 ) and TTDC (p 998 ) offer the same from Bengaluru and Chennai, respectively. APTDC also has a full-day tour ( 340) of temples in the Tirupathi area.

whidbey ferry Indian Airlines (%2283992; Tirumala Bypass Rd; h9.30am-5.30pm), 2km from town, has daily flights to





Birla Mandir & Planetarium HINDU TEMPLE, MUSEUM (Map p898) The Birla mandir (h7am-noon & 2-9pm), constructed of white Rajasthani marble in 1976, graces Kalabahad (Black Mountain), one of two rocky hills overlooking the Hussain Sagar. Dedicated to Venkateshwara, the temple is a popular whidbey ferry Hindu pilgrimage centre and affords excellent views over the city, especially whidbey ferry at sunset. The library (h4- 8pm) here is worth a visit

6 Mecca Masjid. A4 Transport 7 Osmania General Hospital. A2 13 Afzal Gunj Bus Stop.B2 8 Salar Jung Museum. B2 14 Koti Bus Station. B1 15 Mahatma Gandhi (Imlibun) Bus Eating Station. C1 9 Hotel Shadab. B3 Hotel Suhail HOTEL $ (Map p898; %24610299; www.hotel suhail.in; whidbey ferry Troop Bazaar; s/d/tr whidbey ferry from 475/620/900; ai) If all budget whidbey ferry hotels were like the Suhail, we d all be much better off. Staff are friendly and on top of it, the rooms are large and quiet, have balconies and constant hot water. It s tucked away on an alley behind the main post offi ce and the Grand Hotel away from the Hyderabad bustle, whidbey ferry but it s also unlit at night; some readers find it sketchy.

Indian whidbey ferry Airlines (%2283992; Tirumala Bypass Rd; h9.30am-5.30pm), 2km from town, has daily flights to Delhi via Hyderabad. Kingfisher Red (%9849677008) plies the same route, including Bengaluru and Visakhapatnam. Book with Mitta Travels (%2225981; Prakasam Rd; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-12.30pm Sun), next to Manasa Fast Foods, 2km from the train station.

the milepost kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage centres: on average, 40,00





Tirupathi is the service town at the bottom of the hill, with hotels, restaurants, and transport; a fleet of buses constantly ferries pilgrims the 18km up and down. You ll find most of your worldly needs around the Tirupathi bus station (TP Area) and, about 500m away, the train station.

kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage centres: on average, 40,000 pilgrims the milepost come each day (the total often exceeds 100,000), and darshan (deity-viewing) the milepost runs 24/7. Temple staff alone number 12,000, and the efficient Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams (TTD; %2277777; www.tirumala.org) brilliantly administers the crowds. As a result, although the throngs can be overwhelming, a sense of order, serenity and ease mostly prevails, and a trip to the Holy Hill can be fulfi lling, even if you re not a pilgrim.

Next door are the Birla Planetarium & Science Museum (museum/planetarium 20/35; hmuseum 10.30am-8pm, to 3pm Fri, planetarium shows 11.30am, 4pm & 6pm) and the worthwhile the milepost Birla Modern Art Gallery (admission 10; h10.30am-6pm).

seattle to port townsend ferry C Courses Dhamma Nagajjuna MEDITATION (Nagarjunasagar Vipassana Centre; %09440139329; www.nagajjuna.





C Courses Dhamma Nagajjuna MEDITATION (Nagarjunasagar Vipassana Centre; %09440139329; www.nagajjuna.dhamma.org; Hill Colony) seattle to port townsend ferry Keeping the legacy of Buddhism alive in the region, this centre offers intensive 10-day meditation courses in the grounds overlooking seattle to port townsend ferry Nagarjuna Sagar. Courses are run on a donation basis.

Legends about the hill itself and the surrounding area appear in the Puranas, and the temple s history may date back 2000 years. The main temple is an atmospheric place, though you ll be pressed between hundreds of devotees when you see it. The inner sanctum itself is dark and magical; it smells of incense, resonates with chanting and may make you religious. There, Venkateshwara sits gloriously on his throne, inspiring bliss and love among his visitors. You ll have a moment to make a wish and then you ll be shoved out again. Don t forget to collect your delicious ladoo (sweet made of fl our, sugar, raisins and nuts) from the counter.

The monasteries flourished during the Theravada period (Bavikonda, from the 3rd century BC to the 3rd century AD, and Thotlakonda, from the 2nd century BC to 2nd century AD) and had votive stupas, seattle to port townsend ferry congregation halls, chaitya-grihas, viharas seattle to port townsend ferry and refectories. Today only the ruins of these massive monastic compounds remain, but they re impressive nonetheless, with a placid, almost magical, air and sea views to meditate on. Bavikonda and Thotlakonda are 14km and 16km, respectively, from Vizag on Bheemli Beach Rd. Vizag s autorickshaw drivers charge around 400 return to see both.

AP State Museum MUSEUM seattle to port townsend ferry (Map p898; Public Gardens Rd, Nampally; admission 10, camera/video 100/500; h10.30am5pm Sat-Thu) The continually renovated State Museum hosts a rather dusty collection of important archaeological finds from the area, as well as a Buddhist sculpture gallery, with some relics of the Buddha and an exhibit on Andhra s Buddhist history. There are also Jain and bronze sculpture galleries, a decorative-arts gallery and a 4500-year-old Egyptian seattle to port townsend ferry mummy. The museum, like the gorgeous Legislative Assembly building (Map p 898 ) down the road (both commissioned by the seventh nizam), is floodlit at night.

new london ferry to hamptons Vijayawada is a busy, rapidly growing city and an important port at the head of the delta of the mig





BBQ Nation INDIAN, CONTINENTAL $$ (Map p902; www.barbeque-nation.com; Rd No 1; lunch Mon-Sat 344, Sun 544, dinner 600; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm) All you can eat BBQ meat, seafood and vegetarian skewers served at your table.

Vijayawada is a busy, rapidly growing city and an important port at the head of the delta of the mighty Krishna River. It s bustling, but it s also intersected by canals, lined with ghats and ringed by fields of rice and palm. The surrounding area is intensely lush and green.

Vijayawada is a busy, rapidly growing city and an important port at the head of the delta of the mighty Krishna River. It s bustling, but it s also intersected by canals, lined with ghats and ringed by fields of rice and palm. The surrounding area is intensely lush and green.

block island ny Submarine Museum MUSEUM ( Beach Rd, adult/child 25/15; h2-8.30pm Tue- Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 2-8.30pm S





Submarine block island ny Museum MUSEUM block island ny ( Beach Rd, adult/child 25/15; h2-8.30pm Tue- Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 2-8.30pm Sun) A fascinating opportunity to look inside the 91m-long Indian navy submarine. The soviet-built Kursura saw battle in 1971 during the Liberation War, (which saw India side with East Pakistan in their struggle for independence from Pakistan resulting in the birth of Bangladesh) and, exploring within, you ll find a fantastic jumble of knobs, switches, wires, valves, gauges, nuts, bolts and dials.

The Vizag area s natural harbours have long been conducive to dropping block island ny anchor, which helped monks from Sri Lanka, China and Tibet come here to learn and practice block island ny meditation. Bavikonda (h9am-6pm) and Thotlakonda (h10am-3pm) were popular hilltop monasteries on the coast that hosted up to 150 monks at a time with the help of massive rainwater tanks and, at Thotlakonda, a natural spring.

907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10 7 (evening) Bidar 80 4 half-hourly Chennai 550-880 12-14 3 (evening) Hospet 280 9 2 Mumbai 550-985 14-12 6 (evening) Mysore 599 15 1 Nagarjuna Sagar 85-116 4 8 Tirupathi 435-735 12 12 Vijayawada 197-390 6 hourly Visakhapatnam 470-865 14 12 Warangal 77 3 half-hourly

dover port Taj Mahal Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p898; %24758250; tajmahal_abid@rediffmail. com; cnr Abids & King Kothi





The Vizag area s natural harbours have long been conducive to dropping dover port anchor, which helped monks from Sri Lanka, China and Tibet come here to learn and practice meditation. Bavikonda (h9am-6pm) and Thotlakonda (h10am-3pm) were popular hilltop monasteries on the coast that hosted up to 150 monks at a time with the help of massive rainwater dover port tanks and, at Thotlakonda, a natural spring.

Taj Mahal Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p898; %24758250; dover port tajmahal_abid@rediffmail. com; cnr Abids & King Kothi Rds; s/d with AC from 1200/1650; a) This rambling 1924 heritage building dover port has a magnificent exterior, plants peppered about and decent, though ultimately overpriced rooms. Each is different so ask to see a few: the better ones have boudoirs, crystal-knobbed armoires and wood-beam ceilings.

Nehru Centenary Tribal Museum MUSEUM (Map p902; Masab Tank; Indian/foreigner 10/100; h10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) Andhra Pradesh dover port s 33 tribal groups, based mostly in the northeastern dover port part of the state, comprise several

Legends about the hill itself and the surrounding area appear in the Puranas, and the temple s history may date back 2000 years. The main temple is an atmospheric dover port place, though you ll be pressed between hundreds of devotees when you see it. The inner sanctum itself is dark and magical; it smells of incense, resonates with chanting and may make you religious. There, Venkateshwara sits gloriously on his throne, inspiring bliss and love among his visitors. You ll have a moment to make a wish and then you ll be shoved out again. Don t forget to collect your delicious ladoo (sweet made of fl our, sugar, raisins and nuts) from the counter.

paulus hook ferry Chandrika Guest House (%9490430989; s/d 1000/1500), 2km from the station, is the most peaceful optio





Hyderabad owes its existence to a water shortage at Golconda in the late 16th century. The reigning Qutb Shahis were forced to relocate, and so Mohammed Quli and the royal family abandoned paulus hook ferry Golconda Fort for the banks of the Musi River. The new city of Hyderabad was established, with the brand- new Charminar as its centrepiece.

Chandrika paulus hook ferry Guest House (%9490430989; s/d 1000/1500), 2km from the station, is the most peaceful option with rooms looking out to fields, though it s overpriced. The Hill Resort Mayuri (%958936-249204; cottages from 650; a), near the museum, has cottages with good views. There s also a few uninspiring options around the station, otherwise paulus hook ferry you could try the forest retreat of Jungle Bells (Tyda; cottages from 800; a), 45km from Araku, with cottages tucked away in woods. Book at APTDC. You can sample paulus hook ferry the local coffee at Araku Valley Coffee House (h9am-9pm), paulus hook ferry next to the Museum of Habitat.

Laad Bazaar MARKET (Map p900) West of the Charminar, the crowded Laad Bazaar is the perfect place to get lost. It has everything from fi ne perfumes, fabrics and jewels to musical instruments, secondhand saris and kitchen implements. Artisans are tucked away creating jewellery and scented oils, large pots and burkas. The lanes around the Charminar also form the centre of India s pearl trade. Some great deals can be had if you know your stuff.

jefferson ferry Mughal empire. In the 18th century the post-Mughal rulers in Hyderabad, known as nizams, retained re





Mughal empire. In the 18th century the post-Mughal rulers in Hyderabad, known as nizams, retained jefferson ferry relative control as the British and French vied for trade, though their power gradually weakened. The region became part of independent India in 1947, and in 1956 the state of Andhra Pradesh, an amalgamation of Telugu-speaking areas plus the predominantly Urdu-speaking capital, was created.

In 1724 the Hyderabad jefferson ferry viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderabad an independent state with himself as leader. The dynasty of the nizams of Hyderabad began, and the traditions of Islam flourished. Hyderabad became a focus for the arts, culture and learning, and the centre of Islamic India. Its abundance of rare gems and minerals the world-famous Kohinoor diamond is from here furnished the nizams with enormous wealth. (William Dalrymple jefferson ferry s White Mughals jefferson ferry is a fascinating jefferson ferry portrait of the city at this time.)

the peaks at bells ferry Meena Bazar CLOTHING (Map p898; www.meenabazarhyd.co.in; Tilak Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Gorgeous





Tirupathi is the service town at the bottom of the hill, with hotels, restaurants, and transport; a fleet of buses constantly ferries pilgrims the 18km up and down. You ll find most of your worldly needs around the Tirupathi bus station (TP Area) and, about 500m away, the train station.

Meena Bazar CLOTHING (Map p898; www.meenabazarhyd.co.in; Tilak Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Gorgeous saris, salwar the peaks at bells ferry (trouser) suits and fabrics at fixed prices. Also has a branch the peaks at bells ferry in Banjara Hills (Map p902).

ferry to hoboken kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage centres: on average, 40,00





You can also make your own way there from Hyderabad or Vijayawada. From Hyderabad, take a bus to Nagarjuna Sagar (from 85, four hours). From there, it s a 10 shared rickshaw to Pylon, and another 10 to the boat launch. The nearest train station is 22km away at Macherla, where buses leave regularly for Nagarjuna Sagar.

Andhra plays hard to get: its charms are subtle. But if you look closely, you ll find a long, fascinating history ferry to hoboken of arts, culture, spiritual scholarship and religious harmony. In Hyderabad s Old City, Islamic monuments, Persian-inspired architecture and the call of the muezzin speak of the city s unique heritage.

kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage centres: on average, 40,000 pilgrims come each day (the total often exceeds 100,000), and darshan (deity-viewing) runs 24/7. Temple staff alone number 12,000, and the efficient Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams (TTD; %2277777; www.tirumala.org) brilliantly administers the crowds. As a result, although the throngs can be overwhelming, a sense of order, serenity and ease mostly prevails, and a trip to the Holy Hill can be fulfi lling, even if you re not a pilgrim. ferry to hoboken

Just west of the bridge is the spectacular Osmania General Hospital (Map p900), on the north side, and, on the south, the High Court (Map p900) and Government ferry to hoboken City College (Map p900), ferry to hoboken all built under the seventh nizam in the Indo-Saracenic style.

arnold ferry schedule Nehru Centenary Tribal Museum MUSEUM (Map p902; Masab Tank; Indian/foreigner 10/100; h10.30am-5pm Mo





Nehru Centenary Tribal Museum MUSEUM (Map p902; Masab Tank; Indian/foreigner 10/100; h10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) Andhra Pradesh s 33 tribal groups, based mostly in the northeastern part of the state, comprise several

New Andhra Hotel INDIAN $ (Sree Kanya Lodge, Bowdara Rd; mains 25-75; h11am-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm) An unassuming little place with really good, really hot Andhra dishes. Meals ( 50/130 for veg/ non-veg) arnold ferry schedule and biryani arnold ferry schedule are top-notch.

ludington restaurants Around 36km east of Tirupathi, Sri Kalahasti is known for its important Sri Kalahasteeswara Temple a





AP State Museum MUSEUM ludington restaurants (Map p898; Public ludington restaurants Gardens Rd, Nampally; admission 10, camera/video 100/500; h10.30am5pm Sat-Thu) The continually renovated State Museum hosts a rather dusty collection of important archaeological finds from the area, as well as a Buddhist sculpture gallery, with some relics of the Buddha and an exhibit on Andhra s Buddhist history. There are also Jain and bronze sculpture galleries, a decorative-arts ludington restaurants gallery and a 4500-year-old Egyptian mummy. The museum, like the gorgeous Legislative Assembly building (Map p 898 ) down the road (both commissioned by the seventh nizam), is floodlit at night.

Around 36km east of Tirupathi, Sri Kalahasti is known for its important Sri Kalahasteeswara Temple and for being, along with Machilipatnam near Vijayawada, a centre for the ancient art of kalamkari. These paintings are made with natural ingredients: ludington restaurants the cotton is primed with myrabalam (resin) and cow s milk; figures are drawn with a pointed bamboo stick dipped in fermented jaggery and water; and the dyes are made from cow dung, ground seeds, plants and flowers. You can see the artists at work in the Agraharam neighbourhood, 2.5km from the bus stand. Sri Vijayalakshmi Fine Kalamkari Arts (%9441138380; door No 15890) is an old family business with 40 artists.

puerto rico ferry Hotel Shadab INDIAN $$ (Map p900; High Court Rd, Patthargatti; mains 60250; hnoon-midnight) One meal





(%2856330; www.saipriyabeachresorts.com; cottages/r from 700/1300; ais) Boasting a prime position right on Rushikonda beach, Sai Priya offers either modern rooms, some with sea views, or more rustic bamboo and cane cottages which have more of a beachy feel. The grounds are lush and almost really beautiful but, like the rest of the place, they fall short of their potential. Also, checkout s a rude 8am. Guests and nonguests can use the pool for two hours for 100.

the Park hotel, out the back are tables in the sand on the edge of the beach where you can indulge puerto rico ferry in delicious spicy fried fish ( 120) and tiger prawns ( 160). It s also a great spot for a cold beer with ocean views and a big outdoor screen. It s an overwhelmingly male clientele, but isn t seedy like some Indian bars.

Hotel Shadab INDIAN $$ (Map p900; High Court Rd, Patthargatti; mains 60250; hnoon-midnight) One meal at Shadab puerto rico ferry and you ll be forever under its spell. The hopping restaurant is the place to get biryani ( 95 to 200) and, during puerto rico ferry Ramzan (Ramadan), haleem. It has even mastered veg biryani (!) and hundreds of other veg and non-veg delights (if you try the chocolate

Vast dormitories puerto rico ferry (beds free) and guest- puerto rico ferry houses (r 50-2500) surround the temple in Tirumala, but these are intended for pilgrims. To stay, check in at the Central Reception Offi ce. Huge dining halls (meals free) serve thousands of pilgrims daily. Veg restaurants also serve meals for 15. The following places are all in Tirupathi.

red funnel Boats depart every month-ish for Port Blair in the Andaman Islands. Bookings for the 56hour journey





Hotel Mamata Lodge HOTEL $ (%2225873; 1st fl, 170 TP Area; s/d/tr & q 200/300/400) A friendly, spick-and-span cheapie. Some of the sheets are stained, but they re tucked in tight and lovingly patched with white squares. Avoid the downstairs lodge of the same name.

Puttaparthi is most easily reached from Bengaluru, 160km south; nine KSRTC buses (express/ Volvo 110/220, four hours) and eight trains (sleeper/3AC/2AC 133/323/420, three hours) head here daily. The KSRTC offi ce (%288938) is next to the bus station.

Boats depart every month-ish for Port Blair in the Andaman Islands. Bookings for the 56hour journey (from 1960) can be made at the Shipping Office (%2565597, 9866073407; red funnel Av Bhanoji Row; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) in the port complex. Bring your passport.

governors island ferry brooklyn Chandrika Guest House (%9490430989; s/d 1000/1500), 2km from the station, is the most peaceful optio





Look for the 9m-long monolithic Nandi India s largest at the town s entrance. governors island ferry brooklyn From here, you can see the temple s Naga-lingam (a phallic representation of Shiva) crowned with a seven-headed cobra. The temple is known for its unfinished Kalyana Mandapam (Marriage Hall), depicting the wedding of Parvati and Shiva, and its Natyamandapa (Dance Hall), with carvings governors island ferry brooklyn of dancing gods. The temple s most stunning features, though, are the Natyamandapa s ceiling frescoes.

Just around the corner from Big Bazaar, this outpost of the fabulous Minerva chain has great North and South Indian, including top- notch dosas ( 33 to 58). Its rava masala dosa (made with semolina) is the best thing ever.

Chandrika Guest House (%9490430989; s/d 1000/1500), 2km from the station, is the most peaceful option with rooms looking out to fields, though it s overpriced. The Hill Resort Mayuri (%958936-249204; cottages from 650; a), near the museum, has cottages with good views. There s also a few uninspiring options around the station, otherwise governors island ferry brooklyn you could try the forest retreat of Jungle Bells (Tyda; cottages from 800; a), 45km from Araku, with cottages tucked away in woods. Book at APTDC. You can sample the local coffee governors island ferry brooklyn at Araku Valley Coffee House (h9am-9pm), next to the Museum of Habitat.

Vast dormitories (beds free) and guest- houses (r 50-2500) surround the temple in Tirumala, but these are intended for pilgrims. To stay, check in at the Central Reception Offi ce. Huge dining halls (meals free) serve thousands of pilgrims daily. Veg restaurants also serve meals for 15. The following places are all in Tirupathi.

ferry plaza san francisco About 75km from Puttaparthi is Lepakshi, site of the Veerbhadra Temple (admission free). The town ge





About 75km from Puttaparthi is Lepakshi, site of the Veerbhadra ferry plaza san francisco Temple (admission free). The town gets its name from the Ramayana: ferry plaza san francisco when demon Ravana kidnapped Rama s wife, Sita, the bird Jatayu fought him and fell, injured, at the temple site. Rama then called him to get up; Lepakshi derives from the Sanskrit for Get up, bird.

910 STATE OF GOOD KARMA In its typically understated way, Andhra Pradesh doesn t make much of its vast archaeological and karmic wealth. But the state is packed with impressive ruins of its rich Buddhist history. Only a few of Andhra s 150 stupas, monasteries, caves and other sites have been excavated, ferry plaza san francisco turning up rare relics of the Buddha ferry plaza san francisco (usually pearl-like pieces of bone) with offerings ferry plaza san francisco such as golden flowers. Nagarjunakonda and Amaravathi were flourishing Buddhist complexes, ferry plaza san francisco and near Visakhapatnam were the incredibly peaceful sites of Thotlakonda, and Bavikonda and Sankaram, looking across seascapes and lush countryside. They speak of a time when Andhra Pradesh or Andhradesa was a hotbed of Buddhist activity, when monks came from around the world to learn from some of the tradition ferry plaza san francisco s most renowned teachers. Andhradesa s Buddhist culture, in which sangha (community of monks and nuns), laity and statespeople all took part, lasted around 1500 years from the 6th century BC. There s no historical evidence for it, but some even say that the Buddha ferry plaza san francisco himself visited the area. Andhradesa s first practitioners were likely disciples of Bavari, an ascetic who lived on the banks of the Godavari River and sent his followers north to bring back the Buddha s teachings. But the dharma really took off in the 3rd century BC under Ashoka, who dispatched monks across his empire to teach and construct stupas enshrined with relics of the Buddha. (Being near these was thought to help progress on the path to enlightenment.) Succeeding Ashoka, the Satavahanas and then Ikshvakus were also supportive. At their capital ferry plaza san francisco at Amaravathi, the Satavahanas adorned ferry plaza san francisco Ashoka s modest stupa with elegant decoration. They built monasteries across the Krishna Valley and exported ferry plaza san francisco the dharma through their sophisticated maritime network. It was also during the Satavahana reign that Nagarjuna lived. Considered by many to be the progenitor of Mahayana Buddhism, the monk was equal parts logician, philosopher and meditator, and he wrote several ground-breaking works that shaped contemporary Buddhist thought. Other important monk-philosophers would emerge from the area in the following centuries, making Andhradesa a sort of Buddhist motherland of the South.

ferries to alaska About 75km from Puttaparthi is Lepakshi, site of the Veerbhadra Temple (admission free). The town ge





About 75km from Puttaparthi is Lepakshi, site of the Veerbhadra Temple (admission free). ferries to alaska The town gets its name from the Ramayana: when demon Ravana kidnapped Rama s wife, Sita, the bird Jatayu fought him and fell, injured, at the temple site. Rama then called him to get up; Lepakshi derives from the Sanskrit for Get up, bird.

C Courses Dhamma Vijaya MEDITATION (Vipassana Meditation Centre; ferries to alaska %08812-225522; www.dhamma.org; Eluru-Chintalapudi ferries to alaska Rd) Offers ferries to alaska intensive 10-day vipassana meditation courses free of charge in lush palm- and cocoa-forested grounds. The centre is 15km from Eluru; call for details.

ferry to new jersey restoration of this dazzling palace or, technically, four (char) palaces (mahalla). Begun in 1750, i





Puttaparthi is most easily ferry to new jersey reached from Bengaluru, 160km south; nine KSRTC buses (express/ Volvo 110/220, four hours) and eight trains (sleeper/3AC/2AC 133/323/420, three hours) head here daily. The KSRTC offi ce (%288938) is next to the bus station.

Around 36km east of Tirupathi, Sri Kalahasti is known for its important Sri Kalahasteeswara Temple and for being, along with Machilipatnam near Vijayawada, a centre for the ancient art of kalamkari. These paintings are made with natural ingredients: ferry to new jersey the cotton is primed with myrabalam (resin) and cow s milk; figures are drawn with a pointed ferry to new jersey bamboo stick dipped in fermented jaggery and water; and the dyes are made from cow dung, ground seeds, plants and flowers. You can see the artists at work in the Agraharam neighbourhood, 2.5km from the bus stand. Sri Vijayalakshmi Fine Kalamkari Arts (%9441138380; door No 15890) is an old family business with 40 artists.

restoration of this dazzling palace or, technically, four (char) palaces (mahalla). Begun in 1750, it was expanded over the next 100 years, absorbing Persian, Indo-Saracenic, Rajasthani and European styles. ferry to new jersey The southern courtyard has one mahal with period rooms that have been reconstructed with the nizams over-the-top furniture; another ferry to new jersey mahal with an exhibit on life in the zenana (women s quarters); antique cars; and curiosities ferry to new jersey like elephant seats, and a Remington Urdu typewriter.

Qutb Shahi Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; admission 10, camera/video 20/100; h9am-5pm) These graceful domed tombs sit serenely in landscaped gardens about 1.5km northwest of Golconda Fort s Balahisar Gate. Seven of the nine Qutb Shahi rulers were buried here, as well as members of the royal family and respected citizens from entertainers to doctors. You could easily spend half a day here taking photos and wandering in and out of the mausoleums. The upper level of Mohammed Quli s tomb, reached via a narrow staircase, has good views of the area. The Qutb Shahi Tombs booklet ( 20) may be available at the ticket counter.

sea jet ferry The bus station has a train reservation booth (h8am-noon & 5-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun). For Hyderaba





From the 2nd century BC the Satavahana empire, sea jet ferry also known as the Andhras, reigned throughout the Deccan plateau. It evolved from the Andhra people, whose presence in southern India may date back to 1000 BC. The Buddha s teaching took root here early on, and in the 3rd century BC the Andhras fully embraced it, building huge edifices sea jet ferry in its honour. In the coming centuries, sea jet ferry the Andhras would develop a fl ourishing civilisation that extended from the west to the east coasts of South India.

The bus station has a train reservation booth (h8am-noon & 5-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm sea jet ferry Sun). For Hyderabad, an overnight train goes daily to Kacheguda (7604; sleeper/3AC/2AC 240/650/870, sea jet ferry 10 hours). Overnight train 8564 runs to Visakhapatnam (sleeper/3AC/2AC 340/940/1300, 20 hours), stopping at Vijayawada. The daily Udyan Express (6530) heads to Mumbai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 350/950/1300, 21 hours). sea jet ferry

anacortes friday harbor ferry The Kirandol passenger train ( 20, five hours) leaves Vizag at 6.50am and Araku at 3pm. It s a slow,





The Kirandol passenger train ( 20, five hours) leaves Vizag at 6.50am and Araku at 3pm. It s a slow, spectacular ride; sit on the right-hand side coming out of Vizag for best views. For Jungle Bells, get off at Tyda station, 500m from the resort. Frequent buses ( 58, 4 hours) leave from Araku to Vizag every hour until 7pm.

the Park hotel, out the back are tables anacortes friday harbor ferry in the sand on the edge of the beach where you can indulge in delicious spicy fried fish ( 120) and tiger prawns ( 160). It s also a great spot for a cold beer with ocean views and a big outdoor screen. It s an overwhelmingly male clientele, but isn t seedy like some Indian bars.

Park HOTEL $$$ (%2754488; www.theparkhotels.com; Beach Rd; s/d from 7000/9000; ais) Vizag s only five-star is very elegant, very high-design. Even if you don t stay here, visit Bamboo Bay, its beachfront restaurant, for a drink. Checkout is noon.

909MAJOR BUS ROUTES FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids 87 Charminar Nampally 2/2V, 8A/8U Charminar Secunderabad station 20D Jubilee station Nampally 142K Koti Golconda 119OR, 142M Nampally Golconda 1P/25 Secunderabad station Jubilee station 1K, 1B, 3SS, 40 Secunderabad station Koti 20P, 20V, 49, 49P Secunderabad station Nampally anacortes friday harbor ferry 909MAJOR BUS ROUTES anacortes friday harbor ferry FROM HYDERABAD & SECUNDERABAD BUS NO ROUTE 65G/66G Charminar Golconda, via Abids 87 Charminar Nampally 2/2V, 8A/8U Charminar Secunderabad anacortes friday harbor ferry station 20D Jubilee station Nampally anacortes friday harbor ferry 142K Koti Golconda 119OR, 142M Nampally Golconda 1P/25 Secunderabad station Jubilee station 1K, 1B, 3SS, 40 Secunderabad anacortes friday harbor ferry station Koti 20P, 20V, 49, 49P Secunderabad station Nampally

anchorage to juneau Hyderabad s long-distance bus stations are mind-bogglingly efficient. Mahatma Gandhi bus station (Ma





Hyderabad s long-distance anchorage to juneau bus stations are mind-bogglingly efficient. Mahatma Gandhi bus station (Map p900; %24614406), more commonly known as Imlibun, has advance booking offices (%23434269; h8am-10pm). For trips to Karnataka, go with KSRTC (%24656430). Visit www.apsrtc.co.in for timetables and fares.

Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development anchorage to juneau Corporation (APTDC; %24-hr info 23450444; www.aptdc.in; h7am-8.30pm) Bashirbagh (Map p898 ; %23298456; NSF Shakar Bhavan, opposite Police Control Room); Secunderabad (Map p896 ; %27893100; Yatri Nivas Hotel, Sardar Patel Rd); Tankbund Rd (Map p898 ; %65581555; h10.30am-5pm) Organises tours.

ered in 1926 by archaeologist AR Saraswathi in the adjacent valley. In 1953, when it became known that a massive hydroelectric project would soon create the Nagarjuna Sagar reservoir, flooding the area, a six-year excavation was launched to unearth the area s many Buddhist ruins: stupas, viharas (monasteries), chaitya-grihas (assembly anchorage to juneau halls with stupas) and mandapas (pillared pavilions), as well as some outstanding examples of white-marble depictions of the Buddha s life. The finds were reassembled on Nagarjunakonda.

arnold line ferry Secunderabad Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradi





Museum of Habitat (admission 10; h10am1pm arnold line ferry & 2-5pm) with exhibits on indigenous life. APTDC runs tours ( 500) from Vizag, which take in a performance of Dhimsa, a tribal dance, and the million-year-old limestone Borra Caves (admission 40, camera 100; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm), 30km from Araku.

Vijayawada is considered by many to be the heart of Andhra culture and language and has an important Durga temple. Nearby Amaravathi, meanwhile, was a centre of Buddhist learning and practice for many centuries.

910 STATE OF GOOD KARMA In its typically understated way, Andhra Pradesh doesn t make much of its vast archaeological and karmic wealth. But the state is packed with impressive ruins of its rich Buddhist history. Only a few of Andhra s 150 stupas, monasteries, caves and other sites have been excavated, turning up rare relics of the Buddha (usually pearl-like pieces arnold line ferry of bone) with offerings such as golden flowers. Nagarjunakonda and Amaravathi were flourishing Buddhist complexes, and near Visakhapatnam were the incredibly peaceful sites of Thotlakonda, and Bavikonda and Sankaram, looking across seascapes and lush countryside. They speak of a time when Andhra Pradesh or Andhradesa was a hotbed of Buddhist activity, when monks came from around the world to learn from some of the tradition s most renowned teachers. Andhradesa s Buddhist culture, in which sangha (community of monks and nuns), laity and statespeople all took part, lasted around 1500 years from the 6th century BC. There s no historical evidence for it, but some even say that the Buddha himself visited the area. Andhradesa s first practitioners were likely disciples of Bavari, an ascetic who lived on the banks of the Godavari River and sent his followers north to bring back the Buddha s teachings. But the dharma really took off in the 3rd century BC under Ashoka, who dispatched monks across his empire to teach and construct stupas enshrined with relics of the Buddha. (Being near these was thought to help progress on the path to enlightenment.) Succeeding Ashoka, the Satavahanas and then Ikshvakus were also supportive. At their capital at Amaravathi, the Satavahanas adorned Ashoka s modest stupa with elegant decoration. They built monasteries across the Krishna Valley and exported the dharma through arnold line ferry their sophisticated maritime network. It was also during the Satavahana reign that Nagarjuna lived. Considered by many to be the progenitor of Mahayana Buddhism, the monk was equal parts logician, philosopher and meditator, arnold line ferry and he wrote several ground-breaking works that shaped contemporary arnold line ferry Buddhist thought. arnold line ferry Other important monk-philosophers would emerge from the area in the following centuries, arnold line ferry making Andhradesa a sort of Buddhist motherland of the South. 1 Sights Fort FORT (Indian/foreigner 5/100; h9am-6.30pm) Warangal s fort was a massive construction with three distinct arnold line ferry circular strongholds surrounded by a moat. Four paths with decorative gateways, set according to the cardinal points, led to the Swayambhava, a huge Shiva temple. The gateways arnold line ferry are still obvious, but most of the fort is in ruins. It s easily reached from Warangal by bus or autorickshaw ( 200 return). Admission includes entry to nearby Kush Mahal, a 16th century royal hall with artefacts on display.

Secunderabad Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradise Persis arnold line ferry Restaurant.B2 arnold line ferry Secunderabad Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradise arnold line ferry Persis Restaurant.B2

washington ferry map Around 36km east of Tirupathi, Sri Kalahasti is known for its important Sri Kalahasteeswara Temple a





Around 36km east of Tirupathi, Sri Kalahasti is known for its important Sri Kalahasteeswara Temple and for being, along with Machilipatnam near Vijayawada, a centre for the ancient art of kalamkari. These paintings washington ferry map are made with natural ingredients: the cotton is primed with myrabalam (resin) washington ferry map and cow s milk; figures are drawn with a pointed bamboo stick dipped in fermented jaggery and water; and the dyes are made from cow dung, ground seeds, plants and flowers. You can see the artists at work in the Agraharam neighbourhood, 2.5km from the bus stand. Sri Vijayalakshmi Fine Kalamkari Arts (%9441138380; door No 15890) is an old family business with 40 artists.

Kondapalli washington ferry map fort (admission 5, camera 100; h10.30am-5pm), strategically situated on the old Machilipatnam Golconda trade route, was built in 1360 by the Reddy kings, and was held by the Gajapathis, the Qutb Shahis, the Mughals and the nizams before becoming a British military camp in 1767. Today it s a quiet, lovely ruin. On weekdays, you ll likely have the place to yourself and you can easily spend a few hours hiking around. Kondapalli washington ferry map village, 1km downhill, is famous for its wooden dolls. The fort is 21km from Vijayawada; an autorickshaw is 400 return.

Just west of the bridge is the spectacular Osmania General Hospital (Map p900), on the north side, and, on the south, the High Court (Map p900) and Government City College (Map p900), all built under the seventh nizam in the Indo-Saracenic style.

Meena Bazar CLOTHING (Map p898; www.meenabazarhyd.co.in; Tilak Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Gorgeous saris, salwar (trouser) suits and fabrics at fixed prices. Also has a branch in Banjara Hills (Map p902).

ferry dublin to liverpool Look for the 9m-long monolithic Nandi India s largest at the town s entrance. From here, you can see





# # # # f # # # SAIFABAD GUNFOUNDRY BASHIRBAGH HIMAYATHNAGAR HILL FORT HYDERGUDA KOTI HYDERABAD NAMPALLY Hussain Sagar Nizam College Grounds Lumbini Park Indira Gandhi Park Public Gardens NTR Gardens Bashirbagh Flyover Mukarramjahi Rd Public Gardens Rd Tankbund Rd Lakdi-ka-pulRd ferry dublin to liverpool Chapel Rd Nampally StationRd Hill Fort Rd Raja Reddy Marg ChiragAli La JigarRd Secretariat Rd Indira Park Rd NTR Marg Koti Main Rd JNRd Himayathnagar Rd Tilak Rd King KothiRd Lower Tankbund Rd Bank St Abids Rd Ashok Nagar Rd Narayanguda Rd Sultan Bazar Rd Hyderguda Main Rd (Old MLA Quarters Rd) Naubat Pahar Kalabhad Hyderabad (Nampally) ferry dublin to liverpool Train Station Prasad's Multiplex 2 31 30 28 6 13 12 15 14 17 18 19 16 27 1 5 7 3 4 8 10 11 9 23 20 24 25 22 21 29 26 5

Look for the 9m-long monolithic Nandi India s largest at the town s entrance. From here, you can see the temple s Naga-lingam ferry dublin to liverpool (a phallic representation ferry dublin to liverpool of Shiva) crowned with a seven-headed cobra. ferry dublin to liverpool The temple is known for its unfinished Kalyana Mandapam (Marriage Hall), depicting the wedding of Parvati and Shiva, and its Natyamandapa (Dance Hall), with carvings of dancing gods. The temple s most stunning features, though, are the Natyamandapa s ceiling frescoes.

Just west of the bridge is the spectacular Osmania General Hospital (Map p900), on the north side, and, on the south, ferry dublin to liverpool the High Court (Map p900) and Government City College (Map p900), all built under the seventh nizam in the Indo-Saracenic style.

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

bellingham ketchikan ferry Chandrika Guest House (%9490430989; s/d 1000/1500), 2km from the station, is the most peaceful optio





Chandrika Guest House (%9490430989; s/d 1000/1500), 2km from the station, is the most peaceful option with rooms looking out to fields, though it s overpriced. The Hill Resort Mayuri (%958936-249204; cottages from 650; a), near the museum, has cottages with good views. There s also a few uninspiring options around the station, otherwise you could try the forest retreat of Jungle Bells (Tyda; cottages from 800; a), 45km from Araku, with cottages tucked away in woods. Book at APTDC. You can sample the local coffee at Araku Valley Coffee House (h9am-9pm), next to the Museum bellingham ketchikan ferry of Habitat.

Golden Glory Guesthouse bellingham ketchikan ferry HOTEL $ (Map p902; %23554765; www.goldengloryguest house.com; Rd No 3, Banjara Hills; s/d incl breakfast from 650/900, bellingham ketchikan ferry s incl breakfast without bathroom 290; aW) Nestled among the mansions bellingham ketchikan ferry of ritzy Banjara Hills, this gem of a hotel scores big on location. Tucked down a quiet residential street, it s the perfect bellingham ketchikan ferry place to escape the madness of Hyderabad. First impressions are grand with sparkling bellingham ketchikan ferry lobby and spiral staircase, and while the cheaper rooms are boxy, they re very clean and good value (and include a simple breakfast). Pricier rooms are more spacious with balconies and bathtubs.

902 ANDHRA PRADESH chicken or pineapple mutton, let us know how it goes). Packed with Old City families and good vibes. Kamat Hotel INDIAN $ (Map p 896 ; SD Rd, Secunderabad; mains 45-75; h7am-10pm) How much do we love Kamat Hotel? Words can t say. Each Kamat is slightly diff erent, but they re all cheap and good. There are two branches on SD Rd; the others are in Saifabad and on Nampally Station Rd (Map p 898 ). Meals (from 36) are reliably delish. Kamat Andhra Meals INDIAN $ (Map p 898 ; Troop Bazaar; meals from 45; hnoon- 4pm & 7-11pm) Excellent authentic Andhra meals on banana leaves, topped up till you almost faint with pleasure, and fi nished off with a banana. Its sister restaurants in the same compound Kamat Jowar Bhakri (Maharashtran), Kamat Restaurant with air-con (North bellingham ketchikan ferry and South Indian) and Kamat Coffee Shop are likewise friendly family joints full of happy diners. No relation to Kamat Hotel. Also recommended: Paradise Persis Restaurant INDIAN $$ (Map p 896 ; cnr SD & MG Rds, Secunderabad; mains 125-245; h11.30am-11pm) Ask any Hyderabadi about biryani, and they ll mention Paradise. Mozamjahi Market MARKET $ (Map p 900 ; cnr Mukarramjahi & Jawaharlal Nehru Rds; h6am-6pm) A great place to buy fruit and vegies (or ice cream), while enjoying the alluring architecture of the stone building, commissioned by the seventh nizam and named after his son. Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba INDIAN $ (Map p 898 ; Hanuman Tekdi Rd; mains 45-110; hnoon-4pm & 7-11pm) Always busy, Papaji s has profoundly delicious veg and non-veg biryanis, curries and tikkas. Watch the : : : : : : : : 6 6 1

To get here, take a Puttaparthi-Bengaluru bus and alight at Kodakonda Checkpost ( 40). From there, take a Hindupur-bound bus ( 14) or an autorickshaw ( 250 return) to Lepakshi. A private car from Puttaparthi is 1000. You can also go from Hindupur, a main stop on the Puttaparthi-Bengaluru train line, which has a few hotels. It s 11km from the temple.

vallejo to san francisco ferry MMTS trains (www.mmts.co.in) are convenient, particularly for the three main train stations. There a





(%2856330; www.saipriyabeachresorts.com; cottages/r from 700/1300; ais) Boasting a prime position right on Rushikonda beach, vallejo to san francisco ferry Sai Priya offers either modern rooms, some with sea views, or more rustic bamboo and cane cottages which have more of a beachy vallejo to san francisco ferry feel. The grounds are lush and almost really beautiful but, like the rest of the place, they fall short of their potential. Also, checkout s a rude 8am. Guests and nonguests can use the pool for two hours for 100.

MMTS trains (www.mmts.co.in) are convenient, particularly for the three main train stations. There are two main lines: Hyderabad (Nampally) to Lingampalli (northwest of Banjara Hills) has 11 stops, including Lakdikapul, Khairatabad, Necklace Rd, Begumpet and Hitec City; the Falaknuma (south of Old City) to Secunderabad line passes vallejo to san francisco ferry by Yakutpura, Dabirpura, Malakpet and Kachiguda among others. Trains will be labelled with their start and end point: HL is Hyderabad Lingampalli, vallejo to san francisco ferry FS is Falaknuma Secunderabad and so on. Trains are efficient but only run every 30 to 40 minutes. Tickets are 3 to 10.

Vijayawada vallejo to san francisco ferry is considered by many to be the heart of Andhra culture and language and has an important Durga temple. Nearby Amaravathi, meanwhile, was a centre of Buddhist learning and practice for many centuries.

Another Buddhist site 10km from the launch point is the peaceful Anupu with remains of a stupa, university and amphitheatre; likewise vallejo to san francisco ferry relocated piece by piece prior to the construction of the dam. A tree here was planted by the Dalai Lama during his visit in 2006.

channel island ferry Prasanthi Nilayam (Abode of Highest Peace) is the main ashram of the late Sri Sathya Sai Baba (1926





910 STATE OF GOOD KARMA In its typically understated way, Andhra Pradesh doesn t make much of its vast archaeological and karmic wealth. But the state is packed with impressive ruins of its rich Buddhist history. Only a few of Andhra s 150 stupas, monasteries, caves and other sites have been excavated, turning up rare relics of the Buddha (usually pearl-like pieces of bone) with offerings such as golden channel island ferry flowers. Nagarjunakonda and Amaravathi were flourishing Buddhist complexes, and near Visakhapatnam were the incredibly channel island ferry peaceful sites of Thotlakonda, and Bavikonda and Sankaram, looking across seascapes and lush countryside. channel island ferry They speak of a time when Andhra Pradesh or Andhradesa was a hotbed of Buddhist activity, when monks came from around channel island ferry the world to learn from some of the tradition s most renowned teachers. Andhradesa s Buddhist culture, in which sangha (community of monks and nuns), laity and statespeople all took part, lasted around 1500 years from the 6th century BC. There s no historical evidence for it, but some even say that the Buddha himself visited the area. Andhradesa s first practitioners were likely disciples of Bavari, an ascetic who lived on the banks of the Godavari River and sent his followers north to bring back the Buddha s teachings. But the dharma really took off in the 3rd century BC under Ashoka, who dispatched monks across his empire to teach and construct stupas enshrined with relics of the Buddha. (Being near these was thought to help progress on the path to enlightenment.) channel island ferry Succeeding Ashoka, the Satavahanas and then Ikshvakus were also supportive. At their capital at Amaravathi, the Satavahanas adorned Ashoka s modest stupa with elegant decoration. They built monasteries across the Krishna Valley and exported the dharma through their sophisticated maritime network. It was also during the Satavahana reign that Nagarjuna lived. Considered by many to be the progenitor of Mahayana Buddhism, the monk was equal parts logician, philosopher and meditator, and he wrote several ground-breaking channel island ferry works that shaped contemporary Buddhist thought. channel island ferry Other important monk-philosophers would emerge from the area in the following centuries, making Andhradesa a sort of Buddhist motherland of the South. 1 Sights Fort FORT (Indian/foreigner 5/100; channel island ferry h9am-6.30pm) Warangal s fort was a massive construction with three distinct circular strongholds surrounded by a moat. Four paths with decorative gateways, set according to the cardinal points, led to the Swayambhava, a huge Shiva temple. The gateways are still obvious, but most of the fort is in ruins. It s easily reached from Warangal by bus or autorickshaw ( 200 return). Admission includes entry to nearby Kush Mahal, a 16th century royal hall with artefacts on display.

Museum channel island ferry of Habitat (admission 10; h10am1pm & 2-5pm) with exhibits on indigenous life. APTDC runs tours ( 500) from Vizag, which take in a performance of Dhimsa, a tribal dance, and the million-year-old limestone channel island ferry Borra Caves (admission 40, camera 100; h10am-1pm channel island ferry & 2-5pm), 30km from Araku. channel island ferry

Hotel Bliss HOTEL $$ (%2237773; www.blisstirupati.com; Reniguta Rd; s/d from 1710/1980; channel island ferry ais) The most luxurious place in town with ultracomfortable rooms, professional staff and a glass lift with great views and droning pilgrim elevator music.

Prasanthi channel island ferry Nilayam (Abode of Highest Peace) is the main ashram of the late Sri Sathya Sai Baba (1926 2011), the deceased afro-haired guru revered by followers from around the world. Setting up the ashram in his hometown channel island ferry of Puttaparthi 60 years ago, he lived here for most of the year, though with his death from a respiratory-related illness on 24 April 2011, the town faces an uncertain future. While the millions of dollars pumped into the nearby hospital, schools and university will ensure the town continues to thrive upon his legacy, long-term it remains to be seen whether devotees will continue to arrive en masse without the presence of the man himself.

sherman shanklin The best beach for swimming is at Rushikonda, 10km north of town, one of the nicest stretches of coa





Vijayawada is on the main Chenna Kolkata and Chennai Delhi railway lines. The daily Coromandel Express (2841) runs to Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 214/544/732, seven hours) and, the other way, to Kolkata (2842; sleeper/3AC/2AC 395/1054/1440, 20 hours). Speedy Rajdhani (Thursday sherman shanklin and Saturday) and Jan Shatabdi (daily except Tuesday) trains also ply the Vijayawada Chennai route. sherman shanklin Trains galore run to Hyderabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC 190/478/639, 6 hours) and Tirupathi (sleeper/3AC/2AC 198/502/674, seven hours). The computerised advance-booking offi ce (%enquiry 2577775, reservations 2578955; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, till 2pm Sun) is in the basement.

The best beach for swimming is at Rushikonda, 10km north of town, one of the nicest stretches of coast you ll fi nd this side of India. Weekends get busy and take on a carnival-like atmosphere. Surfers keen for a paddle can rent decent boards from local surf pioneer, Melville, at SAAP

dawson city ak About 65km northeast of Warangal, the stunning Ramappa Temple (h6am-6.30pm), built in 1234, is an at





In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderabad an independent dawson city ak state with himself as leader. The dynasty of the nizams of Hyderabad began, and the traditions of Islam flourished. Hyderabad became a focus for the arts, culture and learning, and the centre of Islamic India. dawson city ak Its abundance of rare gems and minerals the world-famous Kohinoor diamond is from here furnished the nizams with enormous wealth. (William Dalrymple s White Mughals is a fascinating portrait of the city at this time.)

Devotees flock to Tirumala to see Venkateshwara, an avatar dawson city ak of Vishnu. dawson city ak Among the many powers attributed dawson city ak to him is the granting of any wish made before the idol at Tirumala. Many pilgrims also donate their hair to the deity in gratitude for a wish fulfilled, or to renounce dawson city ak ego so hundreds of barbers attend to devotees. Tirumala and Tirupathi are filled with tonsured men, women and children, generating big money from exports to Western wig companies.

5 Eating Lotus Food City INDIAN $$ (www.lotusthefoodcity.com; Seethanagaram; mains 80-150) Set up by APTDC, this food complex has a lovely spot on the Krishna River where you can dine in or outdoors looking out to the shimmering water.

About 65km northeast of Warangal, the stunning Ramappa Temple (h6am-6.30pm), dawson city ak built in 1234, is an attractive example of Kakatiya architecture, although it was clearly influenced by Chalukya and Hoysala styles. Its pillars are ornately carved and its eaves shelter dawson city ak fine statues of female forms.

ferry from oakland to san francisco (%2856330; www.saipriyabeachresorts.com; cottages/r from 700/1300; ais) Boasting a prime position ri





Nagarjuna Resort HOTEL $ (%08642-242471; r from 750; a) The most convenient place to stay, across the road from the boat launch. It has spacious, slightly shabby rooms with geysers, balconies and good views.

Next door are the Birla Planetarium & Science Museum (museum/planetarium 20/35; hmuseum 10.30am-8pm, to 3pm Fri, planetarium shows 11.30am, 4pm & 6pm) and the worthwhile Birla Modern Art Gallery (admission 10; h10.30am-6pm).

Sankranti (Jan, statewide) This important Telugu festival marks the end of harvest ferry from oakland to san francisco season. Kite-flying abounds, women decorate their doorsteps with colourful kolams (or rangolis rice-flour designs), and men decorate cattle with bells and fresh horn paint.

(%2856330; www.saipriyabeachresorts.com; ferry from oakland to san francisco cottages/r from 700/1300; ais) Boasting a prime position right on Rushikonda beach, ferry from oakland to san francisco Sai Priya offers either modern rooms, some with sea views, ferry from oakland to san francisco or more rustic bamboo and cane cottages which have more of a beachy feel. The grounds are lush and almost really beautiful but, like the rest of the place, they fall short of their potential. Also, checkout s a rude 8am. Guests and nonguests can use the pool for two hours for 100.

north carolina ferries Most people stay at the ashram (%287390; www.srisathyasai.org.in), a small village with all amenitie





Most people stay at the ashram (%287390; www.srisathyasai.org.in), a small village with all amenities. Lodging is cheap but basic. Advance bookings aren t taken; north carolina ferries visitors under 25 must be in a family or group.

Hyderabad Perfumers PERFUMERY (Map p900; Patthargatti; h10am-8.30pm Mon- Sat) The family-run Hyderabad Perfumers, which has been in business for four generations, can whip something up for you on the spot.

In the last decade, with the rise of Hyderabad s west side our aged princess s sexy and popular granddaughter a new decadence has emerged. Cyberabad , with Bengaluru (Bangalore) and Pune, is the seat of India s mighty software dynasty and generates north carolina ferries

Once the Andhran capital and a significant Buddhist centre, Amaravathi is India s biggest north carolina ferries stupa (Indian/foreigner 5/100; h8am6pm), measuring 27m high and constructed north carolina ferries in the 3rd century BC, when Emperor Ashoka sent monks south to spread the Buddha s teaching. Located 60km west of Vijayawada, all that remains are a mound and some stones, but the nearby museum (admission 5; h8am-5pm) has a small replica of the stupa, with its intricately carved pillars, marble- surfaced dome and carvings north carolina ferries of scenes from the Buddha s life (no photography north carolina ferries allowed in the museum). In the courtyard north carolina ferries is a reconstruction of part of the surrounding gateway, which gives you an idea of the stupa s massive scale. It s worth the trip, but many of Amaravathi s best sculptures are in London s British Museum and Chennai s Government Museum in Tamil Nadu.

woods hole ferry schedule and reliefs of the Buddha that span the Theravada, Mahayana and Vajrayana periods. Bojjannakonda has





and reliefs of the Buddha that span the Theravada, Mahayana and Vajrayana periods. Bojjannakonda has a two-storey group of rock-cut caves fl anked by dwarapalakas (doorkeepers) and containing a stupa and gorgeous carvings of the Buddha (some restored). Atop the hill sit the ruins of a huge stupa and a monastery; you can still make out the individual cells where monks meditated. Lingalakonda is piled high with stupas, some of them enormous.

Hotel Bliss HOTEL $$ (%2237773; www.blisstirupati.com; Reniguta Rd; s/d from 1710/1980; ais) The most luxurious place in town with ultracomfortable rooms, professional staff and a glass lift with great views and droning pilgrim elevator music.

6 Mecca Masjid. A4 Transport 7 Osmania General woods hole ferry schedule Hospital. A2 13 Afzal Gunj Bus Stop.B2 8 Salar Jung Museum. woods hole ferry schedule B2 14 Koti Bus Station. B1 15 Mahatma woods hole ferry schedule Gandhi (Imlibun) Bus Eating Station. C1 9 Hotel Shadab. B3 Hotel Suhail HOTEL $ (Map p898; %24610299; www.hotel suhail.in; Troop Bazaar; s/d/tr from 475/620/900; ai) If all budget hotels were like the Suhail, we d all be much better off. Staff are friendly and on top of it, the rooms are large and quiet, have balconies and constant hot water. It s tucked woods hole ferry schedule away on an alley behind the main post offi ce and the Grand Hotel away from the Hyderabad woods hole ferry schedule bustle, but it s also unlit at night; some readers find it sketchy.

ferry seattle Bheemunipatnam, 25km north of Vizag, a former Dutch settlement and the oldest municipality in mainla





Puttaparthi is most easily reached from Bengaluru, 160km south; nine KSRTC buses (express/ Volvo 110/220, four hours) and eight trains (sleeper/3AC/2AC 133/323/420, three hours) head here daily. The KSRTC offi ce (%288938) is next to the bus station.

Bheemunipatnam, 25km north of Vizag, a former Dutch settlement and the oldest municipality in mainland India, is worth a visit. Here you ll find more bizarre sculptures, a lighthouse dating from 1861, an interesting Dutch cemetery and Bheemli Beach, where local grommets surf on crude homemade boards. To get here catch bus 999 ( 19), or otherwise a shared autorickshaw

ferries in seattle Victoria Jubilee Museum MUSEUM (MG Rd; admission Indian/foreigner 20/100, camera 3; h10.30am-5pm Sat





Victoria Jubilee Museum MUSEUM (MG Rd; admission Indian/foreigner 20/100, camera 3; h10.30am-5pm Sat-Thu) The best part of this museum is the building itself, built in 1887 to honour Queen Victoria s coronation jubilee. In 1921 it hosted the Congress meeting

You can also make your own way there from Hyderabad or Vijayawada. From Hyderabad, take a bus to Nagarjuna Sagar (from 85, four hours). From there, it s a 10 shared rickshaw to Pylon, and another 10 to the boat launch. ferries in seattle The nearest train station is 22km away at Macherla, where buses leave regularly for Nagarjuna Sagar.

ferry county Visit Visakhapatnam also called Vizag (vie-zag) during the holiday season and you ll see domestic to





Visit Visakhapatnam also called Vizag (vie-zag) during the holiday season and you ll see domestic tourism in rare form: balloons, fairy floss (cotton ferry county candy) and, of course, weddings! But the crowds only enhance the area s kitschy coasts. The rundown boardwalk along Ramakrishna Beach has lots of spunk, ferry county and the beach at nearby Rushikonda is Andhra s best.

Secunderabad Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradise Persis Restaurant.B2 Secunderabad Sleeping 1 Minerva ferry county Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradise Persis Restaurant.B2

bainbridge seattle ferry schedule trophobic metal cages ringing the temple. Quick darshan tickets ( 300) are recommended, and will get





Nowhere suits the term fit for royalty better than at the Falaknuma Palace, the former residence of the sixth nizam. Taking over a decade to restore, the Taj Group s latest luxury hotel has most certainly been worth the wait. The cheapest rooms have Italian marble floors, colonial bainbridge seattle ferry schedule furniture and great city views, while the Presidential Suite (an astounding 500,000 per night) was

6 Mecca Masjid. A4 Transport 7 Osmania General Hospital. A2 13 Afzal Gunj Bus Stop.B2 8 Salar Jung Museum. B2 14 Koti Bus Station. B1 15 Mahatma Gandhi (Imlibun) Bus Eating Station. C1 9 Hotel Shadab. B3 Hotel Suhail HOTEL $ (Map p898; %24610299; www.hotel suhail.in; Troop Bazaar; s/d/tr from 475/620/900; ai) If all budget hotels were like the Suhail, we d all be much better off. Staff are friendly and on top of it, the rooms are large and quiet, have balconies and constant hot water. It s tucked away on an alley behind bainbridge seattle ferry schedule the main post offi ce and the Grand Hotel away from the Hyderabad bustle, but it s also unlit at night; some readers find it sketchy.

trophobic metal cages ringing the temple. bainbridge seattle ferry schedule Quick darshan tickets ( 300) are recommended, and will get you through the queue faster, though you ll still have to brave the gauntlet of the cage, which is part of the fun, kind of Upon entry you ll also have to sign a form declaring your support of Lord Vishnu.

Chandrika Guest House (%9490430989; s/d 1000/1500), 2km from the station, is the most peaceful option with rooms looking out to fields, though it s overpriced. The Hill Resort Mayuri (%958936-249204; cottages from 650; a), near the museum, has cottages with good views. There s also a few uninspiring options around the station, otherwise you could try the forest retreat of Jungle Bells (Tyda; cottages from 800; a), 45km from Araku, with cottages tucked away in woods. Book at APTDC. You can sample the local coffee at Araku Valley Coffee House (h9am-9pm), next to the Museum of Habitat.

king salmon weather Mughal empire. In the 18th century the post-Mughal rulers in Hyderabad, known as nizams, retained re





1000-Pillared Temple HINDU TEMPLE (h6am-6pm) Built in 1163, the 1000-Pillared Temple on the slopes king salmon weather of Hanamkonda Hill, 400m from Hanamkonda crossroads, is a fine example of Chalukyan architecture in a peaceful, leafy setting. Dedicated to three deities Shiva, Vishnu and Surya it has been carefully restored with intricately carved king salmon weather pillars and a central, very impressive Nandi (bull; Shiva s mount) of black granite.

Chudi Bazar HUSSINIALAMNAMPALLYABIDSKOTIPATTHARGATTIMUGHALPURAMusiRiverMir Alam Mandi Chadarghat Bridge king salmon weather KachegudaMainRdJawaarlal Nehru (JN) Rd MaulviAlladinRd king salmon weather Mir Alam Mandi Rd High C o u r t Rd Shah Ali Banda Rd Jambagh Rd SalarJungMarg RaniJhansi Rd Hussaini A l a m Rd Kot i M a in Rd DabirpuraTrain king salmon weather Station MalakpetTrain king salmon weather Station YakutpuraTrain Station 12 2 5 4 7 6 10 9 11 15 13 14 3 1 8 CharminarState Library 431CBC24312BAADDPatthargatti Area 0 1 km 0 0.5 milese the nizam s living quarters and has its own swimming king salmon weather pool and personal butler! If you don t have a spare half million, you can still pop in for high tea in the Jade Room, which has hosted royalty from around the world.

Mughal empire. In the 18th century the post-Mughal rulers in Hyderabad, known as nizams, retained relative control as the British and French vied for trade, king salmon weather though their power gradually weakened. The region became part of independent India in 1947, and in 1956 the state of Andhra Pradesh, an amalgamation of Telugu-speaking areas plus the predominantly Urdu-speaking capital, was created.

attias flea market hours The Hill of Nagarjuna, 150km southeast of Hyderabad, is a peaceful island in the middle of the Nagar





C Courses Dhamma Nagajjuna MEDITATION (Nagarjunasagar Vipassana Centre; %09440139329; www.nagajjuna.dhamma.org; attias flea market hours Hill Colony) attias flea market hours Keeping the legacy of Buddhism alive in the region, this centre offers intensive 10-day meditation courses in the grounds overlooking Nagarjuna Sagar. Courses are run on a donation basis.

898 ANDHRA attias flea market hours PRADESH Kalakriti ART GALLERY (Map p 902 ; www.kalakriti.in; Rd No 10, Banjara Hills; h11am-7pm) Shrishti ART GALLERY (www.shrishtiart.com; Rd No 15, Jubilee Hills; h11am-7pm) C Courses Vipassana International Meditation Centre BUDDHIST MEDITATION (Dhamma Khetta; %24240290; www.khetta. dhamma.org; Nagarjuna Sagar Rd, 12.6km) The Vipassana International Meditation Centre has intensive 10-day meditation courses in its peaceful grounds 20km outside the city. Apply online or at the Hyderabad office (%24732569). A shuttle runs to/from Hyderabad on the fi rst and last day of courses. T Tours APTDC (p 906 ) tours the city ( 270), Ramoji Film City ( 600), Nagarjuna Sagar (weekends, 450) and Tirupathi/Tirumala (three days, 1950). The Sound & Light tour ( 200) takes in Hitec City, the botanic gardens and Golconda Fort s sound-and-light show, but you may spend much of it in traffi c. Tours leave from APTDC s Secunderabad branch (Map p 896 ) : : : : : : : 66 66 66 66 66 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 6 6 66 66 66 66 66 # R R # # # # # # # # # #

The Hill of Nagarjuna, 150km southeast of Hyderabad, is a peaceful island in the middle of the Nagarjuna dam peppered with ancient Buddhist structures. From the 3rd century BC until the 4th century AD, the Krishna River valley was home to powerful empires that supported attias flea market hours the sangha attias flea market hours (Buddhist community of monks and nuns), including the Ikshvakus, whose capital was Nagarjunakonda. It s estimated that this area alone had 30 monasteries.

english channel ferry Everything about Sai Baba was big: the Afro hairdo, the big-name devotees, and the big controversies





BBQ Nation INDIAN, CONTINENTAL $$ (Map p902; www.barbeque-nation.com; Rd No 1; lunch Mon-Sat 344, Sun 544, dinner 600; hnoon-3pm english channel ferry & 7-11pm) english channel ferry All you can eat BBQ meat, seafood and vegetarian skewers served at your table.

Everything about Sai Baba was big: the Afro hairdo, the big-name devotees, and the big controversies allegations of sexual misconduct had led some devotees to lose faith. Others, however, regarded the controversy as simply another terrestrial test for their avatar.

Hyderabad Perfumers PERFUMERY (Map p900; Patthargatti; h10am-8.30pm Mon- Sat) The family-run english channel ferry Hyderabad english channel ferry Perfumers, which has been in business for four generations, can whip something up for you on the spot.

alaska canada highway Once the Andhran capital and a significant Buddhist centre, Amaravathi is India s biggest stupa (Ind





Once the Andhran capital and a significant Buddhist alaska canada highway centre, Amaravathi is India s biggest stupa (Indian/foreigner 5/100; h8am6pm), measuring 27m high and constructed in the 3rd century BC, when Emperor Ashoka sent monks south to spread the Buddha s teaching. Located 60km west of Vijayawada, all that remains are a mound and some stones, but the nearby museum (admission 5; h8am-5pm) has a small replica of the stupa, with its intricately carved pillars, marble- surfaced dome and carvings of scenes from the Buddha alaska canada highway s life (no photography allowed in the museum). In the courtyard is a reconstruction of part of the surrounding gateway, which gives you an idea of the stupa s massive scale. It s worth the trip, but many of Amaravathi s best sculptures are in London s British Museum and Chennai s Government Museum in Tamil Nadu.

Haritha Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2562333; Beach Rd, Appughar; r incl breakfast from 900; a) This APTDC hotel, formerly Punnami, is near Kailasagiri alaska canada highway Hill and right across from the beach. The lowest-priced rooms (with no views) are only so-so; bump yourself up if you can. Checkout is 10am.

C Courses Dhamma Vijaya MEDITATION (Vipassana Meditation Centre; %08812-225522; www.dhamma.org; Eluru-Chintalapudi Rd) Offers intensive 10-day vipassana meditation courses free of charge in lush palm- and cocoa-forested grounds. The centre is 15km from Eluru; call for details.

kilmurvey house trophobic metal cages ringing the temple. Quick darshan tickets ( 300) are recommended, and will get





trophobic metal cages ringing the temple. Quick darshan tickets ( 300) are recommended, and will get you through the queue faster, though you ll still have to brave the gauntlet of the cage, which is part of the fun, kind of Upon entry you ll also have to sign a form declaring your support of Lord Vishnu.

Hotel Shadab INDIAN $$ (Map p900; High Court Rd, Patthargatti; mains 60250; hnoon-midnight) One meal at Shadab and you ll be forever under its spell. The hopping restaurant is the place to get biryani ( 95 to 200) and, during Ramzan (Ramadan), haleem. It has even mastered veg biryani (!) and hundreds of other veg and non-veg delights (if you try the chocolate

woods hole ferry schedule fast from 1690/1790; aW) Under new management, the former budget Jaya International has reinvented i





fast from 1690/1790; aW) Under new management, the former budget Jaya International has reinvented itself as a smart and modern business hotel. Rooms are great value, comfortable and ultramodern. Its downside is the scungy hallways.

Indian Airlines (%2283992; Tirumala Bypass Rd; h9.30am-5.30pm), 2km from town, has daily flights to Delhi via Hyderabad. Kingfisher Red (%9849677008) plies the same route, including Bengaluru and Visakhapatnam. Book with Mitta Travels (%2225981; Prakasam Rd; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-12.30pm Sun), next to Manasa Fast Foods, 2km from the train station.

milwaukee car ferry Vijayawada is considered by many to be the heart of Andhra culture and language and has an important





Vijayawada milwaukee car ferry is considered by many to be the heart of Andhra culture and language and has an important milwaukee car ferry Durga temple. Nearby Amaravathi, meanwhile, was a centre of Buddhist learning and practice for many centuries.

Hyderabad s scene is growing, but drinking establishments are limited by an 11.30pm curfew law. Unless stated otherwise, the following bars are open to 11.30pm (but don t get going till 9pm). All serve food and charge covers ( 500 to 1000) on certain nights for couples, that is: guys usually need a gal to enter. Beer starts at 150, cocktails at 300.

dottie farris 6 Mecca Masjid. A4 Transport 7 Osmania General Hospital. A2 13 Afzal Gunj Bus Stop.B2 8 Salar Jung M





4 Sleeping & Eating Hotel Ashoka HOTEL $$ (%2578491; Main Rd, Hanamkonda; r from 600; ai) Good-value rooms near the Hanamkonda bus stand and the 1000-Pillared Temple. Also in the compound are a restaurant, a bar-restaurant, a pub and the veg Kanishka (mains 75 to 125).

6 Mecca Masjid. A4 Transport 7 Osmania General Hospital. A2 13 Afzal Gunj Bus Stop.B2 8 Salar Jung Museum. B2 14 Koti Bus Station. B1 15 Mahatma Gandhi (Imlibun) Bus Eating Station. C1 9 Hotel Shadab. B3 Hotel Suhail HOTEL $ (Map p898; %24610299; www.hotel suhail.in; Troop Bazaar; s/d/tr from 475/620/900; ai) If all budget hotels were like the Suhail, we d all be much better off. Staff are friendly and on top of it, the rooms are large and quiet, have balconies dottie farris and constant hot water. It s tucked away on an alley behind the main post offi ce and the Grand Hotel away from the Hyderabad bustle, but it s also unlit at night; some readers find it sketchy.

907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) dottie farris Bengaluru 480-775 12-10 7 (evening) Bidar 80 4 half-hourly Chennai 550-880 12-14 3 (evening) Hospet 280 9 2 Mumbai 550-985 14-12 6 (evening) Mysore 599 15 1 Nagarjuna Sagar 85-116 4 8 Tirupathi 435-735 12 12 Vijayawada 197-390 6 hourly Visakhapatnam 470-865 14 12 Warangal 77 3 half-hourly and Kacheguda, which is convenient for Abids. See p908, for key routes. You can book at Hyderabad and Secunderabad stations from 8am to 8pm Monday to Saturday (to 2pm Sunday). Both stations have a tourist counter. For general enquiries, phone %139; for reservation status, %135.