Vast dormitories (beds free) and guest- houses (r 50-2500) surround the temple in Tirumala, but these are intended for pilgrims. To stay, check in at the Central Reception Offi ce. Huge dining halls (meals free) serve thousands of pilgrims ferry crossing daily. Veg restaurants also serve meals for 15. The following places are all in Tirupathi.
Buses run from Vijayawada to Amaravathi every half-hour or so ( 24, two hours), but it may be quicker to head to Guntur ( 12, 45 minutes) and take another bus from there. The drive here will take you through some lovely lush scenery and memorable glimpses of village life.
Walking TTD has constructed probably the best footpath in India for pilgrims to walk up to Tirumala. It s about 15km from Tirupathi and takes four to six hours. Leave your luggage at the toll gate at Alipiri near the Hanuman statue. It will be transported free to the reception centre. At the time of research walking was prohibited from 4pm to 6am due to several leopard attacks on pilgrims. There are shady rest points along the way, and a few canteens.
If you re travelling around Andhra Pradesh during ferry crossing Ramadan (known locally as Ramzan), look out for the clay ovens called bhattis. You ll probably hear them before you see them. Men gather around, taking turns to vigorously pound haleem inside purpose-built structures. Come nightfall, the serious business of eating begins. The taste is worth the wait. In September 2010, this love of the dish was taken a step further, being patented as Hyderabadi haleem ; prohibited to be served under that name unless it meets the strict quality guidelines.
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