Vijay Vihar Complex HOTEL $$ (%277362; fax 276633; r with AC from 1800; as) Two kilometres dottie farris up the hill from the bus stand is the fancy government hotel overlooking the lake. Room balconies have excellent views.
Hotel Annapurna HOTEL $$ (%2250666; Nethaji Rd; r from 850; a) A wee bit overpriced, but it s convenient and well organised. Rooms are clean, compact and pink, with constant hot water. Since it s on a corner (across from the train station), non-AC front rooms can be noisy. Its veg restaurant (mains 45-80) has fresh juices and Tirupathi s best food in sublime air-conditioning.
Laad Bazaar MARKET (Map p900) West of the Charminar, the crowded Laad Bazaar is the perfect place to get lost. It has everything from fi ne perfumes, fabrics and jewels to musical instruments, secondhand saris and kitchen implements. Artisans are tucked away creating jewellery and scented dottie farris oils, large pots and burkas. The lanes around the Charminar also form the centre of India s pearl trade. Some great deals can be had if you know your stuff.
Bheemunipatnam, 25km north of Vizag, a former dottie farris Dutch settlement and the oldest municipality in mainland India, is worth a visit. Here you ll find more bizarre sculptures, a lighthouse dating from 1861, an interesting Dutch cemetery and Bheemli Beach, where local grommets surf on crude homemade boards. To get here catch bus 999 ( 19), or otherwise a shared autorickshaw
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