the milepost kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage centres: on average, 40,00

Tirupathi is the service town at the bottom of the hill, with hotels, restaurants, and transport; a fleet of buses constantly ferries pilgrims the 18km up and down. You ll find most of your worldly needs around the Tirupathi bus station (TP Area) and, about 500m away, the train station.

kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage centres: on average, 40,000 pilgrims the milepost come each day (the total often exceeds 100,000), and darshan (deity-viewing) the milepost runs 24/7. Temple staff alone number 12,000, and the efficient Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams (TTD; %2277777; www.tirumala.org) brilliantly administers the crowds. As a result, although the throngs can be overwhelming, a sense of order, serenity and ease mostly prevails, and a trip to the Holy Hill can be fulfi lling, even if you re not a pilgrim.

Next door are the Birla Planetarium & Science Museum (museum/planetarium 20/35; hmuseum 10.30am-8pm, to 3pm Fri, planetarium shows 11.30am, 4pm & 6pm) and the worthwhile the milepost Birla Modern Art Gallery (admission 10; h10.30am-6pm).