Hyderabad, City of Pearls, is like an elderly, impeccably dressed princess whose time has past. Once the seat of the powerful and wealthy Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties, the city has seen centuries of great prosperity and innovation. Today, the Old City is full of centuries-old Islamic monuments and even older charms. In fact, the whole city is laced with architectural gems: ornate tombs, mosques, palaces and homes from the past are tucked away, faded and enchanting, in corners all over town. Keep your eyes open.
Meena Bazar CLOTHING (Map p898; www.meenabazarhyd.co.in; Tilak Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Gorgeous saris, salwar (trouser) suits and fabrics at fixed prices. Also has a branch in Banjara Hills (Map p902).
the Park hotel, out the back are tables in the sand on the edge of the beach where you can indulge in delicious spicy fried fish ( 120) and tiger prawns ( 160). It s also a great spot for a cold beer with ocean views and a big outdoor screen. It s an overwhelmingly male clientele, but isn t seedy like some Indian bars.
Modern Cafe INDIAN $ (Sree Lakshmi Vilas; Besant Rd, Governorpet; meals 58; h6.30am-10.30pm) With blackand- white-check floors and mismatched wooden chairs, this gritty, down-home veg joint has a heavy 1940s vibe. The meals are great, as are the fresh juices ( 15).
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