the truck shop sayville the Park hotel, out the back are tables in the sand on the edge of the beach where you can indulge i

the Park hotel, out the back are tables in the sand on the edge of the beach where you can indulge in delicious spicy fried fish ( 120) and tiger prawns ( 160). It s also a great spot for a cold beer with ocean views and a big outdoor screen. It s an overwhelmingly male clientele, but isn t seedy like some Indian bars.

Hotel Annapurna HOTEL $$ (%2250666; Nethaji Rd; r from 850; a) A wee bit overpriced, but it s convenient and well organised. Rooms are clean, compact and pink, with constant hot water. Since it s on a corner (across from the train station), non-AC front rooms can be noisy. Its veg restaurant (mains 45-80) has fresh juices the truck shop sayville and Tirupathi s best food in sublime air-conditioning.